How to Eliminate Wood Termites: Signs, Treatment and Prevention

Getting rid of wood termites starts with pinpointing where the colony is, judging how much damage has been done, and selecting a treatment that matches the type of infestation. Furniture, skirting boards, door frames and structural timber can be attacked without obvious warning, which is why prevention also relies on managing damp and protecting exposed surfaces.

How can you tell if the wood is infested with termites?

The clues depend on the species involved and where they are nesting. Small pellets collecting near furniture are often linked to drywood termites, whereas muddy earthen tubes on walls, floors and foundations can point to subterranean species. If you tap the timber gently and it sounds hollow, that may also indicate internal galleries.

Termites are social insects that live in organised colonies and can feed on wood and other materials rich in cellulose. Drywood termites can remain inside the timber itself without any contact with soil, while many subterranean groups build sheltered routes to reach their food source.

• Granular dust building up beneath furniture and door frames;
• Tiny holes on the wood surface;
• Mud tubes close to the floor or along walls;
• Blistered paint over skirting boards and joinery;
• Timber that feels brittle or hollow to the touch.

What is the difference between subterranean termites and drywood termites?

Subterranean termites typically keep their colony in the ground or in damp parts of a building and reach timber through cracks and tunnels. By contrast, drywood termites live inside furniture, doors, ceilings/linings or door frames, and can stay hidden for years before the damage becomes easy to see.

• Subterranean termites may show up near foundations and pipework;
• Drywood termites leave waste that looks like tiny grains;
• Subterranean infestations can spread across different rooms;
• Colonies inside timber may stay concentrated in a single item;
• Each type requires a different control approach.

How do you eliminate termites without only treating the surface?

Sanding, painting, or simply plugging holes will not remove insects that are still living inside the galleries. Depending on the species, the extent of the attack and where the colony is located, control may involve registered termiticides, borate-based compounds, dedicated barrier systems, or biological control.

Chemical products should only be used exactly as directed on the label and kept away from children, animals and food. If there are tubes running through walls, multiple affected items, or damage to beams and roof timbers, the safest option is to hire a specialist company. A professional inspection can identify the active sites and helps avoid applying substances in areas that are not part of the infestation.

What should you do with infested furniture, skirting boards and door frames?

Items with limited damage can often be treated and then protected, but weakened or heavily perforated pieces may need replacing. Before applying varnish or a sealant, the wood needs to be dry, clean and showing no obvious activity. The steps below help stop the problem continuing out of sight:

• Pull furniture away from the wall so every side can be checked;
• Inspect joints, drawers, legs and unfinished sections;
• Do not move an infested item into another room;
• Replace sections that have lost structural strength;
• Seal the timber only after the control work is completed.

How can you stop termites coming back after treatment?

Prevention begins with moisture control. Leaks, seepage, faulty gutters and timber in direct contact with soil create favourable conditions for attack. It also helps to keep offcuts of wood, cardboard and branches away from external walls, and to keep an eye on skirting boards and door frames during routine cleaning.

Varnish, paint and sealant reduce the number of exposed entry points, but they do not replace regular inspections. In the garden, conserving animals that feed on insects can support the local balance, but it will not control a colony already established inside the home. Keeping timber dry, protecting surfaces and fixing damp quickly forms the most reliable barrier against a fresh infestation.